PRESENT DAY CASE STUDY

Many rules, or blueprints, for the formation of collections/product of casual menswear stem from the legacy of the 80's Football Casual Movement. I have specifically hand picked three design entities that are influenced in some way in today's market. The case studies highlight three different business/brand models, all with individual approaches and objectives:

1) AITOR THROUP

The London based designer, raised in Burnley and Manchester, developed a keen interest in labels such as Stone Island and the C.P. Company. Throup’s RCA MA graduate collection ‘When Football Hooligans Become Hindu Gods’ received wide critical acclaim focusing on its conceptual narrative approach.

Aitor later went on to actually collaborate with Stone Island and C.P. Company, re-working the Goggle Jacket, with a focus of  'Urban Protection'. Other collaborations include the re-design of the new England kit with Umbro and art/video direction with Kasabian on their Velociraptor project.

 

 

 

His conceptual flair combines combat functionality and technicalities, with his casual streetwear routes. The outcomes are unique and artistically brilliant, but at the same time he has a commerciality that has created a cult following amongst the modern football fan.

Brief caption of background, experiences and design process

http://www.youtube.com/user/AITORTHROUPSTUDIO?feature=watch 

2) LUKE 77 (The United Kingdom of)

Luke Roper and his team are a straight talking, straight thinking set of designers who understand the need of the average male in the commercial/ high-end high St. realms of fashion. As quoted from the official homepage:

Fashion and accessories clothes label offering fashion collections always created for every social need, equally at home in the city bar scene, on the terraces or in the pub including Jackets, Knitwear, Shirts, Sweats, Polos, T-shirts, Footwear, Watches, Jeans & Denim collection and our new collection Luke Roper Golf LRGO.

 

The core styles echo that of the Casual subculture, rejuvenated for the modern man. Tightly considered, although heavily branded, yet another trait of the Casuals. The use of the word 'terrace' is the only word that specifically refers to football in the brand write-up, but the awareness and understanding of their customer is more than evident in PR, marketing and celebratory endorsements. Frequent product placement can be seen on BBC's Match of the Day's football stars, and targeted actors such as Stephen Graham (of 'This is England' and 'Snatch' fame), and Danny Dyer ('The Football Factory' and 'The Business') champion the Luke look.

3) BURBERRY

The Casuals have had an adverse effect on my third case study. The stigma of the hooligan affiliation, as with a lot of premium brands, has hindered the direction of Burberry over more recent times. Thus prompting a substantial re-branding, in turn adding a pressure to push the design outcomes.

Burberry, a British establishment of classic fashion, initially at the forefront of military outer ware, also often the choice of the Royals and the city 'yuppy'. It was this prestigious, and patriotic, standing that offered all the perfect credentials to be adopted by the UK Football Casuals. Such prominent brand elements such as their own tanned, red and black tartan cloth, would only serve to tarnish the luxury outfit.

"Burberry Prorsum" in London - Spring Summer 2014 Menswear

SUMMARY

I can confidently say that even from this brief blog insight there is clearly a lasting influence on modern day menswear from the Casuals culture. The realisation that inspiration from all walks of fashion can be combined, no matter what the social standing or occasion: the overcoat with a tennis trainer; a tracksuit top worn outside of sport with a classic trouser; even a golf style knitted jumper in a club.

 From a personal point of view I suppose I could consider that my career path within graphic and fashion design is not that of coincidence. Through my football circles I was exposed to the importance of the branding and credibility of a design product, in particular, fashion. I believe this has stood me in good stead whenever digesting a visual brief.

I find it fascinating that such a basic, often barbaric social movement, with little understanding or real appreciation for quality clothing craftsmanship, can have such a immediate and lasting impact on the fashion industry. The notion that the Casuals somehow dictated the direction, public perception, and fortunes of large corporations, is pretty impressive. ....... A 'one up man-ship' for the humble man.